The influence of African culture, specifically the Bambara of Mali, can be seen in iconic collection like Yves Saint Laurent’s 1967 Spring/Summer collection, Picasso’s Les Demoiselles d'Avignon was heavily influenced by African art, and Celine’s 2013 Autumn collection found a ways of paying homage to the all-purpose Ghana-must-go bag. The list is extensive – African culture has at numerous points inspired influential fashion houses.
What is significant about the contemporary moment is that the historical and cultural importance of black culture, and its influence in fashion is being acknowledged. It is significant and worthy of notice because rather than be exploitative, these collections are fostered from collaboration and an appreciation of the contributions of African artists. The artistic collaborations we see paint a colourful portrait of cultural fusion, celebrating the rich heritage and creative ingenuity of the African continent.
From the cosmopolitan streets of Cape Town to Congo, African art has captured the attention of global fashion giants. These collaborations weave intricate narratives of identity and social commentary through the lens of contemporary art and fashion houses transcend their traditional boundaries to embrace African art. Join us as we round up some of the most memorable art-fashion collaborations, where luxury fashion meets African art.Historically, the relationship between the fashion industry and black culture has always been complex.
Amoako Boafo and Dior
Dior joined forces with Ghanaian artist Amoako Boafo for a collaborative project that offered the artist a new canvas for his distinct paintings. The collection sees Boafo's artworks of African subjects transposed on a range of garments, from ribbed knits that have the appearance of a painted canvas to embroidered coats. The collection draws from Boafo’s vibrant colours — fluorescent yellow, alongside blue, coral and green. In other pieces, embroideries, knitwear and intarsia translate specific works by Amoako Boafo to the wearer’s body. His bold brushwork, and intimate portrayals of Black subjects, complement Dior's commitment to artistic innovation and appreciation for diverse cultural expressions.
The collaboration also complements a central element of the artist's work — “The environment of my subjects and their clothing are the most important elements,” Boafo says. Often, his paintings feature titles that refer to clothes, such as Baby Blue Suit, Checkered Beret, Self-Portrait with Pink Pants, and The Lemon Bathing Suit. “I love fashion. Fashion inspires my work. So, I tend to look at characters that have that sense of style in fashion,” explains Boafo.
The collection was realised through the relationship between Kim Jones, the artistic designer for menswear at Dior and Boafo.
Dior and Amoako Boafo, 2021. Image courtesy of Dior
Gucci and Cinthia Sifa Mulanga
Gucci Collaborated with Congolese artist Cinthia Sifa Mulanga to celebrate the evolution of their iconic 'Diana' bag. In this campaign, Cinthia Mulanga's captivating paintings took centre stage, featuring in the promotional material for the Diana tote bag designed by Alessandro Michele. Mulanga was tasked with featuring the iconic Gucci Diana tote bag, in a new piece, commissioned by the Italian fashion house. The artwork showcased two Black women, with one elegantly holding the reimagined Diana tote, beloved for its iconic bamboo handle since its debut in 1991.
Cinthia Mulanga's mixed-media pieces are characterised by vivid colours and domestic settings, offering a unique perspective on her lived experiences as a Congolese artist. Her work delved into the constructs of beauty for African women, exploring both its psychological and physical manifestations. What set Mulanga's art apart was its relatability, particularly to women, especially young Black women, who could find pieces of themselves reflected in her depictions and settings. This inclusivity and representation struck a chord, making her collaboration with a global brand like Gucci all the more fitting.
Moment, 2022, the artwork created as a collaboration between Cinthia Sifa Mulanga and Gucci to celebrate the iconic Gucci Diana tote bag. Image courtesy of Latitudes.
George Lilanga and Hermès
George Lilanga, a renowned Tanzanian artist, is celebrated for his vibrant and whimsical contemporary art, which often features colourful and expressive characters inspired by traditional Makonde culture and mythology. Born in 1934 in Tanzania, Lilanga's artistic journey began as a woodcarver, and he later transitioned to oil painting and sculpture, earning international recognition for his unique style.
Hermès approached Lilanga in the early 2000s and the collaboration between them resulted in a limited-edition line of scarves featuring his distinctive artwork. For this partnership, Lilanga's joyful and imaginative characters were translated onto the “Carrés de soie” silk scarves, merging the world of luxury fashion with contemporary African art. The scarves showcased Lilanga's playful depictions of Mapico dancers with exaggerated features rhythmically arranged with sumptuous bright colors.
The collaboration with Hermès provided George Lilanga with a global platform to showcase his art to a broader audience.
'Lilanga' Silk Scarf designed by George Lilanga for Hermès, 2010. Image courtesy of Sotheby’s.
Louis Vuitton and Nicholas Hlobo
Cape Town-born artist Nicholas Hlobo collaborated with Louis Vuitton for the ArtyCapucines limited edition collection, reimagining their iconic Capucines handbag. Known for his hybrid artworks exploring post-apartheid South Africa and his own identity, Hlobo's signature style involves weaving materials, and using techniques such as stitching and painting.
Inspired by Louis Vuitton's Monogram flower motif, Hlobo added hand-laced embroidered patches to the Capucines bag, creating a beautiful hybrid object that appears to grow organically from its interior. His design breaks from the bag's clean lines, introducing elements representing concealed life beneath the surface, symbolising a relationship between the lining and outer skin. Hlobo's interpretation of the handbag reflects his personal experiences and artistic perspective, fusing his rapport with South Africa, ethnicity, and gender identity into the design. By blending his artistic practices of stitching and layering materials, he aimed to introduce non-conforming elements, deviating from the bag's typical appearance.
As the only African artist among six collaborators, Hlobo's contribution made the ArtyCapucines Nicholas Hlobo bag a highly sought-after collector's item, uniting luxury fashion with his distinctive and thought-provoking artistic vision.
Louis Vuitton and Nicholas Hlobo, 2019. Image courtesy of Louis Vuitton.
Dior and the artist's bags
We’re featuring another Dior collaboration. This time South African artists Athi Patra Ruga and Chris Soal both collaborated with Dior in the fourth and fifth iterations (respectively) of Dior's prestigious Lady Dior Art project.
Ruga designed two bags that showcased his distinctive mythical universe and technical brilliance. The first bag features a ghostly 3-D self-portrait, creatively crafted with pearls, crystals, fabric, and metal flowers, all exquisitely embroidered onto a black background. The second features a quilted scallop motif (a reference to Christian Dior's renowned Junon gown), presented against luxurious leather with jewellery of yellow gold and a hand-hammered finish — a direct reference to the Artist 2019 exhibition Of Gods, Rainbows and Omissions.
Athi Patra Ruga and Dior. Images courtesy of Wanted Online
On the other hand, Soal opts for using discarded objects, challenging societal assumptions of value by repurposing materials with a short-lived usage period. “I have taken material elements from my studio practice and, through dialogue and correspondence with Dior,” said Soal. Excited to contrast his work's everyday materials with the high-end luxury of the Lady Dior bags, Soal also created distinct designs for the project. One design featured folded bottle caps, bearing the Dior signature, arranged in captivating patterns and colours, reminiscent of cowrie, the other with specially made toothpicks, skillfully worked, painted, and embroidered by hand.
Dior and Chris Soal. Image courtesy Visi.
By Khumo Sebambo